Beirut guidebooks have their uses – hotel listings, emergency numbers, helpful maps – but on the sightseeing front they often come up short. If you’ve duly paid a visit to the Mohammad al-Amin Mosque (often better known as the “blue mosque”) and been decidedly underwhelmed by Pigeon Rocks, then perhaps some of these less frequently touted options will pique your curiosity and enthusiasm for exploring Lebanon’s capital. 1. Beirut New Waterfront: You’ll no sooner have disembarked from the plane than all and sundry will direct you to the Corniche. By all means go, view its famous freestanding rocks, watch the sunset from a rooftop bar and take in the multitudinous activities of what is perhaps the city’s most utilized public space. But afterward its worth taking a stroll out to the Beirut New Waterfront, a man-made stretch of coast between BIEL and Zeitunay Bay, where the incessant noise of the city recedes behind you, leaving only the tranquility of the Mediterranean and spectacular views up the northern coast as you turn back toward land. On weekends and public holidays, you’ll also find families here as young children learn how to ride bikes and rollerblade in this quiet spot. If you fancy a bit of pedal-pushing yourself, Beirut by Bike is nearby and offers rental bicycles. 2. Jardin des Jesuites: Leafy parks are not easy to come by in Beirut, but if you take the time to find your way through the narrow streets of Geitawi in East Beirut, you’ll uncover this city’s secret garden. It’s a small, modest affair, but this park does have trees and benches. And just by finding your way there you’ll discover a charming corner of Beirut that isn’t on any regularly paced tourist trail. The park is also a pleasant alternative for those not enamored by the prospect of joining the oil-slathered bodies tanning at the St. George’s beach club. 3. Saifi Village: The guidebooks direct you to Place d’Etoile, and while that’s certainly worth a visit, don’t miss out on Saifi Village, the colorfully painted, rebuilt area just at the top of Martyrs’ Square. In this chic, très European quarter uniformed maids play with children in an open central plaza, while far more French than either Arabic or English fills the air. Visit the boutiques and galleries, and then take a break at one of the sophisticated cafes in the area. 4. The Hangar: Few tourists ever venture to the city’s southern suburbs, but since The Hangar exhibition space in Haret Hreik opened several years ago, visitors keen to see another of the capital’s many faces now have a great reason. With a new exhibition or installation every two to three months, the Hangar showcases work by both Lebanese and international artists. The exhibitions are certainly worth a look, but so is the adventure of getting to the space. You can easily ramble the noisy and chaotic streets of the area, but refrain from overtly taking pictures – it upsets Hezbollah’s security detail – and dress modestly. One of the nicest things to do in this part of town is find a fruit juice shop with some outdoor seating and just people-watch for a while. For more information and directions visit: http://www.umam-dr.org/. 5. Sabra market: Another reason to head south of the city and off the beaten tourist trail is Sabra market. Located next to the Palestinian refugee camp at Shatila, this market is both a visual and aural feast. It is filled with vibrant vegetable displays on stands run by traders who’ve been selling to the same customers for years, and the surrounding stalls offer meat and an assortment of shops sell homeware, books and clothing. Quite often, locals will come up, eager to engage in conversation. Ninety-nine percent of time this will prove enjoyable and nonthreatening. During the summer months you might also witness a wedding procession noisily honking though the narrow streets, and it does well to bear in mind that any volleys of machine-gun fire heard are most probably in celebration of a recent matrimony or high-school exam results. 6. Orient Institute Beirut: If the mayhem of the suburbs has exhausted you or is simply just unappealing, a quiet afternoon at the Orient Institute Beirut in the central Beirut area of Zukak al-Blat (across the highway from the Grand Serail) may an attractive prospect. Set in a traditional villa, replete with wooden paneling and stained glass windows, the OIB boasts both a reasonably extensive library and a garden. The library, which is fully stocked with the daily papers, is open 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. Friday. The institute also frequently hosts interesting evening lectures and workshops
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