Pedal to see what's missed on Jordan's paths

It is day four, and I am manoeuvring a gravel path that in no way qualifies as a road. From the edge of the great eastern plateau of Jordan, I peer into Wadi Araba, a 300 metre canyon of stone and rocky outcroppings. This is no grass-filled valley bisected by a gentle stream. Beyond, the canyon is desert - flat and without the dunes to which I am accustomed. I stop my bike to admire the view.Thanks to knobbly tires, good balance and being cautious, I manage to stay upright and not careen into the abyss. This ancient, back road of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a far cry from the smooth and seamless Yas Marina Circuit, where I typically cycle. The Tuesday evening Safe Cycling events at Yas made me feel bold enough to attempt the Dead 2 Red, a 500-km ride from Madaba to Aqaba. It is my first trip to Jordan and I will see it by bicycle. Early Sunday morning our group of 11 meets in the hotel lobby to connect with our guides from Jordan's Terhaal. Most of us opt to rent a nearly new mountain bike from Terhaal. All experienced cyclists, we are keen to head out on the roads and discover Jordan. The atmosphere as we prep is one of nervous anticipation. The group is diverse and ranges in age from 17 to 57. There's a family from Nottingham: Ed (a solicitor), his wife Laurie (a university professor) and their daughters, Hannah and Izzi, both students. Paul (also a solicitor) and his wife Sharon join us from Ireland. Our five singles - two women and three men - include myself, Lisa (an accountant from Canada), Phil (semi-retired, from the UK), Duncan (a former UK field hockey superstar) and Iñaki (an IT Manager from Northern Spain). Iñaki is tall, lean and supple - built to bike. Is he in Jordan as a warm-up for the Tour de France? Overall, the group is convivial and there is a healthy enthusiasm to achieve our personal goals. We are accompanied by a bike guide, Raslan, and an operations coordinator, Atef. They provide routes and logistics, bike repairs, first aid, non-stop enthusiasm, historical and cultural information, plus drinks, snacks and lunch to keep everyone fuelled. Our starting point is Madaba and I arrive the day before we start biking to explore the "Mosaic City". Some mosaics date back to the sixth century, including those in the Greek Orthodox church of St George. They are interesting and well preserved. However, Madaba has a slightly empty feel for me, despite the attractions that lie within. I leave Madaba and it is an easy pedal on secondary roads to Mount Nebo, from where I look to the west, to Ramallah and Jerusalem. No rain for the first two weeks of April has left it dry and barren.Continuing on, I travel past isolated farms to the villages of Main and Libb. Part of my journey today is on the ancient route known as the King's Highway, a nicely paved road with little traffic and gentle, rolling hills with pastoral scenery. I arrive in late afternoon at our destination of Mukawir, safe and sound and happy to get off the bike to relax. Relax? No, not exactly. Our guides include plenty of additional, non-biking activities including a meal with a local family. We set out on foot to visit Mukawir Castle (built in 90BC and famous as the home of King Herod and prison of John the Baptist). This requires a 700-metre climb (with tired legs) to the ruins on top. Once there, the group sits together, has some tea and takes in the sun setting over the Dead Sea. In the twilight, everything is still. I close my eyes and listen carefully to capture sounds coming from Jordan's time-worn hills. "Sahtain wa 'afiya - to your health," announces Noufan, our host, as he sets out a meal for our group, which resembles a hungry wolf pack. From inside his home, out come numerous platters including mansaf, the national dish of Jordan, and a special aubergine, potato and onion feast for the vegetarians. Mansaf is made with seasoned meat cooked in a sauce made of fermented, dried yogurt known as jameed. There is much fanfare when the mansaf is served on the platter of rice. Lisa, the foodie in the group, explains: "Meals here are a celebration, combining heartfelt generosity and a communal atmosphere." We compliment this Jordanian hospitality: no guest leaves Noufan's home without being completely full. From / The National