Volga-Ural Region: Islam’s Northern frontier

Kazan Located in what is now the Russian Federation, this region is as far north Islam reached in ancient times. The Volga-Ural region historically includes the territories of the Modern Republic of Tatarstan, the Republic of Bashkortostan, the Republic of Chuvashia, the Republic of Mari El, the Republic of Udmurtia, the Republic of Moldavia, and the areas situated on the Volga and the Ural.

It is a geographical region located around the Ural Mountains, between the East European and West Siberian plains. It extends approximately from north to south, from the Arctic Ocean to the bend of the Ural River near Orsk city. The boundary between Europe and Asia runs along the eastern side of the Ural Mountains.

A number of important cities of Islamic culture and learning such as Kazan, Astrakhan, Ufa, Orenburg and Trotsk are located in this region. A particular feature of this region is its historical experience in the multicultural coexistence of peoples from different religions and ethnic origins.

I was part of a delegation with the Organization of the Islamic Conference (OIC) headed by its Secretary General Ekmeleddin Ihsanoglu. We arrived on a cold night in Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan, and were greeted at the airport by former Tatar President Mintimer Shaimiev, who is currently state counselor of the Republic of Tatarstan.

Shaimiev was accompanied by young Tatar ladies who were dressed in beautifully embroidered and colorful long dresses of velvet and silk; they presented us with traditional bread and balls of sweet dry bread called chak-chak, a snack that is traditionally served to guests.

The next day we were taken on a tour of the historic sites in the city of Bolgar on the outskirts of Kazan where Islam became the state religion in 922. This was the first place where Islam was accepted in this region. The sites are being excavated and restored, and include ancient mosques that were destroyed during the Soviet era. Museums are also being built to house newly-discovered Islamic artifacts and manuscripts.

Bolgar was one of the major centers of Islamic civilization in the Volga-Ural region in the past. Shaimiev gave a detailed presentation on the history of Bolgar, which has become in its entirety a State Historical Architectural Museum-Reserve. The locals also consider it sacred ground. The Government of Tatarstan wants to restore the city to its ancient glory after it was neglected and abandoned for the newer city of Kazan. Shaimiev said that the reconstruction works, which are being carried out in the vicinity of the ancient city of Bolgar, would be complete in 2012.

After the fall of the Soviet Union, Islam has been enjoying a period of prosperity because of Shaimiev’s efforts. In recognition of his efforts to revitalize Islamic culture in his country, Saudi Arabia granted him the 2007 King Faisal International Prize for Service to Islam. Since he began rebuilding mosques that had been destroyed, their number has increased from 32 in the Perestroika period to more than 1,200 today.

Listening to Shaimiev speak passionately about the restoration project, we could almost see the old city. Besides the mosques that are being rebuilt and the mausoleums of religious figures that are being uncovered along with artifacts such as jewelry, we were curious about plans to build a “bread museum.”

Shaimiev explained that baking traditional homemade bread, including its numerous varieties, is fading and being replaced with bland mechanically produced bread. He added that he wants to preserve the old way of making bread, and record its history and methods of production.

In the evening, we attended the launch of an academic book initiated by Ihsanoglu — titled “Tatars History and Civilization” — at the Kazan Federal University. The book has been published by the Research Center for Islamic History, Art and Culture (IRCICA), a subsidiary of the OIC.

At the presentation, Shaimiev said the book highlights the place of Tatars in the history of Islam, which was peacefully introduced to the region in the 10th century and not by force. He added that the republic has decided to mark May 21 as a special day to celebrate Islam in the region.

Ihsanoglu said the book sheds light on a region considered on the periphery of the Muslim world although he does not think that “periphery” applies anymore to Islam in Russia where over 20 million Muslims live.

He added that in 2000, when he was director general of IRCICA, he convened the International Symposium on Islamic Civilization in the Volga-Ural Region and that the first symposium was held in Kazan. Four other such symposiums followed, the last in Ufa, Bashkortostan, in October 2010.

Ihsanoglu is credited with bringing Muslim attention to this part of the world and reminding people of its contribution to Islamic history and civilization. He is currently taking particular interest in strengthening relations between these countries — some are members of the OIC and enjoy ties with the rest of the Muslim world, as he indicated in the latest issue of the OIC Journal. With their strategic location, natural resources as well as rich Islamic heritage, it is only natural that the OIC intensifies its engagement with the region.

Our next stop was Ufa, capital of the Republic of Bashkortostan, where senior officials and ladies serving chak-chak again greeted us. Along with the official meetings, including with President Rustem Khamitov and the ministers of education and industry, Ihsanoglu held a meeting with Supreme Mufti Sheikh-Ul-Islam Talgat Tajuddin, head of the Russian Muslims Spiritual Directorate.

The mufti, who spoke Arabic, pointed to a drawing in his office of the old city of Ufa and said that according to some manuscripts, Muslim preachers came to the city in the early days of Islam, making Ufa the northern most city where Islam had reached in those days.

The mufti spoke with joy about the revival of Islamic values and traditions in Bashkortostan in particular and the Russian Federation at large, especially among the younger population. He also said that the general conditions of Muslims today in terms of practicing their religion have improved significantly in past years.

We were able to notice that first hand when we went to Friday prayers at the mosque near the mufti’s office. People solemnly trickled into the simple medium-size mosque. Most of the young were clearly curious and eager to know more about their religion. They walked through the main entrance; the women were dressed modestly and had their hair covered. They went straight to the first floor while the men veered to the right up the stairs to the second floor.

The mufti and his guests went through a side entrance that took them to the second floor. On one of the walls on the first floor there was a board with the Arabic alphabet and Quranic verses written on it; the mosque was obviously also used for classes to teach Arabic and religion. The women were of all ages but many were young and some brought their children while a few seemed to be there for the first time not sure what to expect or how to pray. The mufti delivered the Friday sermon in the local language reading from a paper that had a government stamp on the back.

When we stepped out of the mosque there was a vendor selling fresh hot local bread. It was what we needed in the cold weather. The bread was delicious, round, and thick on the sides and flat in the middle. It tasted similar to the tamis that is sold by Afghans in the Kingdom. We walked back to the mufti’s office nibbling on the bread even though he had invited us to lunch — the bread was too irresistible. Lunch was a feast of meat and rice cooked in the Uzbek traditional way called “plov” or what is called “Bukhari rice” in the Kingdom.

Throughout our meetings and visits we were overwhelmed by the generosity of our hosts in serving us local dishes of broth, fish, horse meat and horse milk — the national drink which is different to cow’s milk and a little sour.

In the evening, we were treated to an exciting dinner and show of traditional music and dance that had a combination of Turkish and Russian influence.

As we were departing the country, we stocked up on bags full of honey. The region produces excellent varieties of honey for foreign export. The locals take beekeeping development and honey production seriously. The government has also established special legislation and a scientific research center, and received international awards in exhibition fairs.

The experience was memorable. The cities of this region are beautiful and serene, exhibiting a sense of calm and orderliness. The people are friendly although language is a barrier. Visiting this region is definitely recommended for those seeking something different.