The snow-capped slopes of the Atlas Mountains, Morocco The drive from Fès to Ifrane begins with olive groves, and with roadside stalls selling honey and pomegranates. Then, as you progress upwards into the Atlas Mountains, the food stalls give way to other roadside vendors touting fossils and fragments of quartz. The road passes fields in which sheep and goats graze, in a land once farmed by the Romans - they grew vines here - then after a thousand twists and turns, you reach the snowline.
The little town of Ifrane is a little farther beyond. Surrounded by nature trails and hiking routes, and packed with cafes, it surprises nearly all first-time visitors regardless of whether they are Moroccans or from farther afield. Covered by a thick blanket of snow through much of the winter, the town has a distinctly European feel. There\'s none of the detail so readily associated with Morocco - no arched doorways, no mosaics, nor any geometric friezes carved into plasterwork. Instead, Ifrane is a haven of sloped Alpine roofs and timber frames, set against a backdrop of woodlands. It\'s straight out of Chamonix.
In the central square there\'s the scent of chocolate-covered crêpes and the aroma of log-fires burning. The only tell-tale sign that you\'re in Morocco is the flowing jelaba robes, worn by many to keep out the winter chill.
At Café Le Paix, a throwback to the days of the French era, I meet a retired American couple, George and Gene. They both have perma-tans, perfect teeth, and tell me simultaneously that Morocco is their greatest love. \"We come twice a year,\" says Gene. \"After spending a few days in Fès, we come up here to Ifrane.\" George adds: \"It\'s a kind of therapy to balance the frenzy of the Fès medina.\"
Much favoured by Hassan II, the king of Morocco from 1961 until his death in 1999, Ifrane has long hosted royalty and is fêted for its celebrity associations. A champion of the outdoor life, King Hassan II would spend months at a time there, moving his royal court into the mountains when he tired of the capital, Rabat.
The royal palace is in pride of place on the road towards Azrou. In the days of the former king\'s rule, a constant stream of dignitaries would make their way up to Ifrane to be received at court. A great many of his VIP guests were accommodated at an imposing Alpinesque chalet set on a promontory just above the town. This mixture of royal guesthouse and luxury hotel grew a little tired in recent years. But, after six years of work, not to mention a fortune spent on it, Hotel Michlifen Ifrane - owned by King Mohammed VI - has risen like a phoenix above Morocco\'s own Alpine backdrop. With the finishing touches complete, the hotel reopened recently to visitors once again. The Michlifen is one of the cosiest and most luxurious travel hideaways in the kingdom.
Inspired by the simple architecture of the Alps, it\'s a sanctuary of natural pine panelling, dressed stone walls, painted Scandinavian wood, sculptures and antique furniture.
The hotel\'s main lobby is vast but informal, filled with dazzling mountain sunshine by day and understated mood lighting by night. The exposed stone pillars, the bare wooden floor and the deep leather couches give a sense of the American Rockies rather than the Moroccan Atlas.
While the decor may be occidental, the service and warmth is definitely Moroccan. On weekends, the hotel is filled with families who arrive mostly from Casablanca and Rabat. As elsewhere, the national obsession with doting over children certainly reaches Ifrane\'s snow-covered peaks.
Visiting with my family, I track my little son down to the kitchen, where he is being indulged by the chef with a pot of chocolate and a spoon. And my daughter spends an entire afternoon playing checkers with the barman who, I notice, always lets her win.
The Michlifen\'s bedrooms are furnished in a range of mountain themes: there\'s Nordic, American lodge and two kinds of alpine - Tyrolean and Savoyarde - styles represented. Sumptuous textiles, antique furniture and great bouquets of fresh flowers add to each room\'s luxury.